Bathers' Pavilion

The sourdough cavatelli at the restaurant was enough for me to give this place five stars. It was so delicious. Also had fish which was good but even better was the hassle back potatoes with the mustard mousse. Very addictive. Wasn’t as expensive as some other fine dining Sydney “must tries” but it was better than them. (I’m looking at you Mr Wong —-overrated)

(4.5 stars) There’s a Jeffrey Smart oil painting in the dining room at Bathers Pavilion. The Overpass (1966–67) captures overlooked architecture juxtaposed with an isolated woman in a yellow dress. It’s presented by the floor team as part of the co-owners’—Ian Pageant and daughter, Jessica Shirvington—private, well-loved art collection, but like Rosalie Gascoigne’s study of 89 parrots on another wall, it is leased from Artbank to complement the the stately old dame’s 2019 renovation. So what is Bathers’ Pavilion post Serge Dansereau, the legendary chef who held court in its kitchen for nearly two decades? In the hands of Executive Chef Aaron Ward (ex-Shell House Dining), it’s a high performing, produce-focused, modern Australian restaurant. Staff let slip we are on a watered-down RedBalloon version of the tasting menu ($195/head). It switches out the expected potato scallop and yellowfin tuna tart for fermented potato bread topped with a whipped roe emulsion, chives and bottarga. The bread is served with a glass of Louis Roederer Brut Champagne, but it prefers the 2024 Utzinger White Label Chardonnay ($114) we chose from the tome-like wine list. Cured kingfish showcases Ward’s skill in levelling up a ubiquitous offering without losing the star attraction using peach, funky white radish, green tomatoes and sharp bursts of torch ginger. A wedge of West Australian pink snapper combines exterior crispness with a lightly-done interior and shades of green in the form of asparagus and iodine-rich laver. Handmade king prawn ravioli is cooked soft for Aussie tastes with a salty bisque that hints of lobster shell, cut by the sweetness of smoked tomatoes. Staff are flogging one kilo Tassy lobsters for $420 apiece to tables far richer than my own. For us coupon folk, the usual wagyu main is switched for smoked Wollemi duck breast and giblet with a jus that tastes of liquorice root. Against well-dressed leaves, it’s wonderful. Desserts—from the intensely sour yuzushu-spiked lemon sorbet palate stripper to the chocolate mousse two-ways cut by not quite enough pear to balance its richness—didn’t quite live up the high standard set by the savoury dishes. The cutlery however, which was changed with every course (a remnant from them hosting Michelin-starred L’Enclume), was impeccable.

The food is good. Highly recommend the seafood. We ordered the snapper and the trout along with the snapper ceviche which is sooo pretty with hints of sweetness from the pear. The bread also came warm and soft which is always a good sign at a restaurant. Beautiful views for lunch and my gin martini was nice. Staff were a hit a miss in terms of service- either really meh or really sweet. I will say it was SO odd the way most, if not all the Asian groups were sat in one section together by the restaurant. It left me, an Asian person born, raised and educated in Sydney like any true blue Aussie, feeling decidedly uncomfortable. I sincerely hope that my experience was the outlier and not the norm at Bathers.

I'd suggest there are some right snobs on here too full of themselves to give this restaurant it's full credit. It is excellent. We went for the tasting menu and all but one of the dishes was a hit for me. In my usual style, a couple of photos to set the scene - if you want to see more, just go. Cheap it ain't but good it is; one of the best restaurants I've been to and you can watch the chefs building the dishes and making their final touches if you are so inclined.

It’s a fantastic spot for brunch, especially on a sunny day. Located right on Balmoral Beach, the views make a stunning backdrop. The service is warm and attentive, and the menu offers plenty of great options. The oysters and mussels were particularly impressive—juicy, sweet, and tender. There’s also a thoughtful kids’ menu, making it a great choice for families. Always a favourite of mine.